It has never flowered, or shown any signs of trying.
Any suggestions to try and make this plant flower?
Any suggestions appreciated.
How to make a night-blooming Jasmine flower?
To ensure the cestrum flowers throughout the year, ensure the plant is kept compact. This will help encourage flowers rather than leaves to grow!
http://www.hintsandthings.com/garden/nig...
1. The requirement for floral initiation in Cestrum nocturnum is satisfied if plants receive long days followed by short days. Continuous short or long days or short days preceding long days are ineffective.
2. A minimum of 5-7 long days followed by two short days is required for the production of flowers.
3. The sequence of reactions necessary for floral initiation in Cestrum is as follows....
http://etd.caltech.edu/etd/available/etd...
Plant night jasmine in moist, well-drained soil near a porch, patio or window that you might have open in the springtime. It needs plenty of light to bloom its best but will do fine even in filtered light. http://msucares.com/news/print/sgnews/sg...
Reply:What do you mean by keeping it compact? My jasmine has 4 "branches" that are spread out. Do you mean I should tie the "branches together" to make the plant more compact? I don't know what else the word "compact" implies. Report It
Reply:You are interesting,to use the three weapon below :water,sunshine and your heart.
Reply:Summer months
To ensure the cestrum flowers throughout the year, ensure the plant is kept compact. This will help encourage flowers rather than leaves to grow! Ensure the specimen has plenty of sunlight and ventilation. Feed once a week with a phostrogen feed to help encourage flowers.
The optimum pH is 6.5
Cestrum – Night Blooming Jasmine
Fact sheet
from David’s Exotic Plants
Watering
Cestrum should be watered thoroughly but then allowed to dry out almost completely before re-watering.
Note – they don’t like to be over-watered, and in the rest period (winter) they should only be watered when the soil is almost dust dry. When growing begins in the Spring they should be given phostrogen feed once a week, to encourage new growth
Monday, April 27, 2009
How to make a night-blooming Jasmine flower?
it has never flowered, or shown any signs of trying.
Any suggestions to try and make this plant flower?
Any suggestions appreciated.
How to make a night-blooming Jasmine flower?
Friend i think this will definitely help u on ur way.. all the best.
How to Grow this Plant:
Characteristics
Cultivar: n/a
Family: Solanaceae
Size: Height: 6 ft. to 10 ft.
Width: 6 ft. to 6 ft.
Plant Category: landscape, shrubs,
Plant Characteristics: irregular growth habit, low maintenance, seed start,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous, evergreen,
Foliage Color: dark green, green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, night blooming, old fashioned/heritage, showy,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:
Requirements
Bloomtime Range: not applicable
USDA Hardiness Zone: 9 to 11
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 5.5 to 6.5
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range: Normal to Moist
Plant Care
Fertilizing
How-tos : Fertilization for Young Plants
Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.
How-tos : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
How-tos : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.
Light
Conditions : Partial Shade
Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.
Conditions : Sun
Sun is defined as the continuous, direct, exposure to 6 hours (or more) of sunlight per day.
Conditions : Light Conditions
Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exsposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are conidered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.
You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site's true light conditions.
Conditions : Types of Pruning
Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.
Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.
Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.
Conditions : Light and Plant Selection
For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a "leggy" stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Watering
Tools : Watering Aides
No gardener depends 100% on natural rainfall. Even the most water conscious garden appreciates the proper hose, watering can or wand.
Watering Cans: Whether you choose plastic of galvanized makes no difference, but do look for generous capacity and a design that is balanced when filled with water. A 2 gallon can (which holds 18 lbs. of water) is preferred by most gardeners and is best suited for outdoor use. Indoor cans should be relatively smaller with narrower spouts and roses (the filter head).
Watering Hose: When purchasing a hose, look for one that is double-walled, as it will resist kinking. Quick coupler links are nice to have on ends of hoses to make altering length fast. To extend the life of your hose, keep it wound around a reel and stored in a shady area. Prior to winter freezes, drain hose.
Sprayers: Are commonly thought of as devices for applying chemicals, but can really be a step saver for watering houseplants or small pots of annuals rather that dragging out a hose or making numerous trips with a watering can. The backpack sprayer is best suited for this. Take care not to use any kind of chemical in tanks used for watering!
Sprinklers: Attached to the ends of garden hoses, these act as an economical irrigation system. Standing Spike Sprinklers are usually intended for lawns and deliver water in a circular pattern. Rotating Sprinklers deliver a circle of water and are perfect for lawns, shrubs and flower beds. Pulse-jet sprinklers cover large areas of ground in a pulsating, circular pattern. The head usually sits up on a tall stem, except for when watering lawns. Oscillating sprinklers are best for watering at ground level in a rectangular pattern.
Conditions : Moist
Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.
Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants
Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
Conditions : Outdoor Watering
Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:
* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.
Planting
How-tos : Pruning Flowering Shrubs
It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.
Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers - in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.
Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering: Kerria
How-tos : Pinching and Thinning Perennials
Once you plant a perennial, it does not mean that you will enjoy years of maintenance-free gardening. Perennials need to be cared for just like any other plant. One thing that distinguishes perennials is that they tend to be active growers that have to be thinned out occasionally or they will loose vigor.
As perennials establish, it is important to prune them back and thin them out occasionally. This will prevent them from completely taking over an area to the exclusion of other plants, and also will increase air circulation thereby reducing the incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew.
Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed. As blooms fade it is advisable to deadhead your plant; that is, to remove spent flowers before they form seed. This will prevent your plants from seeding all over the garden and will conserve the considerable energy it takes the plant to produce seed.
As perennials mature, they may form a dense root mass that eventually leads to a less vigorous plant. It is advisable to occasionally thin out a stand of such perennials. By dividing the root system, you can make new plants to plant in another area of the garden or give away. Also root pruning will stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the plant. Most perennials may be successfully divided in either spring or fall. Do a little homework; some perennials do have a preference.
How-tos : Planting Shrubs
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.
Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.
If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you've positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won't wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.
If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.
Problems
Fungi : Leaf Spots
Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.
Miscellaneous
Conditions : Fall Color
Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.
Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.
Glossary : Deciduous
Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.
Glossary : Evergreen
Evergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.
Glossary : Perennial
Perennial: traditionally a non-woody plant that lives for two or more growing seasons.
Glossary : Seed Start
Seed Start: easily propagated from seed.
Glossary : Shrub
Shrub: is a deciduous or evergreen woody perennial that has multiple branches that form near its base.
Glossary : Old Fashioned or Heritage Plant
Old Fashioned or Heritage Plant is any plant that is reminiscent of early times or tied to a particular region. Often found in the yards of grandmothers or abandoned home sites.
Glossary : pH
pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.
Glossary : Small Shrub
A small shrub is less than 3 feet tall.
Glossary : Flower Characteristics
Flower characteristics can vary greatly and may help you decide on a ""look or feel"" for your garden. If you're looking for fragrance or large, showy flowers, click these boxes and possibilities that fit your cultural conditions will be shown. If you have no preference, leave boxes unchecked to return a greater number of possibilities.
Reply:Jasmine varieties are generally considered evergreen and are not for the most part cold zone plants. It likes sun but should have some protection. If your plant is in good shape leaf and woody parts considered but has no blossoms then so far so good. If it is in a container, start by re-potting, checking to see if root bound, and if so lightly break up the circular pot shaped root ball to keep it from growing in that pot shape and strangling itself. Goldcoast Jasmine, J. dichotomum is probably your variety (zone 10 tropical), which is a white night flowering variety that will blossom continuously.Then, regardless of whether it is in a container or in the garden (in the US south Florida, south California, or south Texas), you need to feed it a higher phosphorus containing fertilizer, with trace elements. Phosphorus is the energy carrying element and is needed for flowering and root growth. The middle number of the fertilizer index of three numbers is the phosphorus (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). So use a 5-10-5 or a 10-20-10, etc. There are about a dozen trace elements so find a formulation that has as many as you can. Keep in mind that they are a lot of varieties, from an early to mid spring blossom to a summer blossom to a year round flowering so you may have missed this year but your work now will guarantee a huge blossom set next year on a very prolific plant. Check the variety if possible to be sure as greenhouses are not the best at assuring a variety. Use some dolomite lime also to adjust pH and provide calcium and magnesium if it is a garden plant, but if potted be careful or skip this part and make sure to use a house plant formula. The pH of the soil determines what level of availability all the elements will be at in the soil solution. At a low pH range or high pH range different elements are found too low or too high for the plant in question, which is why it is so important. Feed all your flowers and plants with the same formula above (and lime unless it's an acid lover) or use an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 with a boost of super phosphate (0-20-0 or 0-30-0 etc) for flowers and root crops (and established new plants to boost roots). I think that covers it. Good luck.
Reply:..How much sunlight does your plant get
Reply:Best suggestion
ask a good gardener in your locality park.
he will explain you in better way.
its hard on net
believe me it works
i did it and was successful
dont ignore... :)
Any suggestions to try and make this plant flower?
Any suggestions appreciated.
How to make a night-blooming Jasmine flower?
Friend i think this will definitely help u on ur way.. all the best.
How to Grow this Plant:
Characteristics
Cultivar: n/a
Family: Solanaceae
Size: Height: 6 ft. to 10 ft.
Width: 6 ft. to 6 ft.
Plant Category: landscape, shrubs,
Plant Characteristics: irregular growth habit, low maintenance, seed start,
Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous, evergreen,
Foliage Color: dark green, green,
Flower Characteristics: fragrant, night blooming, old fashioned/heritage, showy,
Flower Color: whites,
Tolerances:
Requirements
Bloomtime Range: not applicable
USDA Hardiness Zone: 9 to 11
AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant
Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun
pH Range: 5.5 to 6.5
Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam
Water Range: Normal to Moist
Plant Care
Fertilizing
How-tos : Fertilization for Young Plants
Young plants need extra phosphorus to encourage good root development. Look for a fertilizer that has phosphorus, P, in it(the second number on the bag.) Apply recommended amount for plant per label directions in the soil at time of planting or at least during the first growing season.
How-tos : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
How-tos : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.
Light
Conditions : Partial Shade
Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.
Conditions : Sun
Sun is defined as the continuous, direct, exposure to 6 hours (or more) of sunlight per day.
Conditions : Light Conditions
Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exsposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are conidered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun.
You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site's true light conditions.
Conditions : Types of Pruning
Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.
Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.
Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.
Conditions : Light and Plant Selection
For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a "leggy" stretched-out appearance. Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged.
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Watering
Tools : Watering Aides
No gardener depends 100% on natural rainfall. Even the most water conscious garden appreciates the proper hose, watering can or wand.
Watering Cans: Whether you choose plastic of galvanized makes no difference, but do look for generous capacity and a design that is balanced when filled with water. A 2 gallon can (which holds 18 lbs. of water) is preferred by most gardeners and is best suited for outdoor use. Indoor cans should be relatively smaller with narrower spouts and roses (the filter head).
Watering Hose: When purchasing a hose, look for one that is double-walled, as it will resist kinking. Quick coupler links are nice to have on ends of hoses to make altering length fast. To extend the life of your hose, keep it wound around a reel and stored in a shady area. Prior to winter freezes, drain hose.
Sprayers: Are commonly thought of as devices for applying chemicals, but can really be a step saver for watering houseplants or small pots of annuals rather that dragging out a hose or making numerous trips with a watering can. The backpack sprayer is best suited for this. Take care not to use any kind of chemical in tanks used for watering!
Sprinklers: Attached to the ends of garden hoses, these act as an economical irrigation system. Standing Spike Sprinklers are usually intended for lawns and deliver water in a circular pattern. Rotating Sprinklers deliver a circle of water and are perfect for lawns, shrubs and flower beds. Pulse-jet sprinklers cover large areas of ground in a pulsating, circular pattern. The head usually sits up on a tall stem, except for when watering lawns. Oscillating sprinklers are best for watering at ground level in a rectangular pattern.
Conditions : Moist
Moist is defined as soil that receives regular watering to a depth of 18 inch deep, does not dry out, but does not have a drainage problem either.
Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants
Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
Conditions : Outdoor Watering
Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:
* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.
Planting
How-tos : Pruning Flowering Shrubs
It is necessary to prune your deciduous flowering shrub for two reasons: 1. By removing old, damaged or dead wood, you increase air flow, yielding in less disease. 2. You rejuvenate new growth which increases flower production.
Pruning deciduous shrubs can be divided into 4 groups: Those that require minimal pruning (take out only dead, diseased, damaged, or crossed branches, can be done in early spring.); spring pruning (encourages vigorous, new growth which produces summer flowers - in other words, flowers appear on new wood); summer pruning after flower (after flowering, cut back shoots, and take out some of the old growth, down to the ground); suckering habit pruning (flowers appear on wood from previous year. Cut back flowered stems by 1/2, to strong growing new shoots and remove 1/2 of the flowered stems a couple of inches from the ground) Always remove dead, damaged or diseased wood first, no matter what type of pruning you are doing.
Examples: Minimal: Amelanchier, Aronia, Chimonanthus, Clethra, Cornus alternifolia, Daphne, Fothergilla, Hamamelis, Poncirus, Viburnum. Spring: Abelia, Buddleia, Datura, Fuchsia, Hibiscus, Hypericum, Perovskia, Spirea douglasii/japonica, Tamarix. Summer after flower: Buddleia alternifolia, Calycanthus, Chaenomeles, Corylus, Cotoneaster, Deutzia, Forsythia, Magnolia x soulangeana/stellata, Philadelphus, Rhododendron sp., Ribes, Spirea x arguta/prunifolia/thunbergii, Syringa, Weigela. Suckering: Kerria
How-tos : Pinching and Thinning Perennials
Once you plant a perennial, it does not mean that you will enjoy years of maintenance-free gardening. Perennials need to be cared for just like any other plant. One thing that distinguishes perennials is that they tend to be active growers that have to be thinned out occasionally or they will loose vigor.
As perennials establish, it is important to prune them back and thin them out occasionally. This will prevent them from completely taking over an area to the exclusion of other plants, and also will increase air circulation thereby reducing the incidence of diseases like botrytis and powdery mildew.
Many species also flower abundantly and produce ample seed. As blooms fade it is advisable to deadhead your plant; that is, to remove spent flowers before they form seed. This will prevent your plants from seeding all over the garden and will conserve the considerable energy it takes the plant to produce seed.
As perennials mature, they may form a dense root mass that eventually leads to a less vigorous plant. It is advisable to occasionally thin out a stand of such perennials. By dividing the root system, you can make new plants to plant in another area of the garden or give away. Also root pruning will stimulate new growth and rejuvenate the plant. Most perennials may be successfully divided in either spring or fall. Do a little homework; some perennials do have a preference.
How-tos : Planting Shrubs
Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment.
Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward. Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.
If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you've positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won't wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well.
If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.
Problems
Fungi : Leaf Spots
Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread.
Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions.
Miscellaneous
Conditions : Fall Color
Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue.
Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.
Glossary : Deciduous
Deciduous refers to those plants that lose their leaves or needles at the end of the growing season.
Glossary : Evergreen
Evergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January.
Glossary : Perennial
Perennial: traditionally a non-woody plant that lives for two or more growing seasons.
Glossary : Seed Start
Seed Start: easily propagated from seed.
Glossary : Shrub
Shrub: is a deciduous or evergreen woody perennial that has multiple branches that form near its base.
Glossary : Old Fashioned or Heritage Plant
Old Fashioned or Heritage Plant is any plant that is reminiscent of early times or tied to a particular region. Often found in the yards of grandmothers or abandoned home sites.
Glossary : pH
pH, means the potential of Hydrogen, is the measure of alkalinity or acidity. In horticulture, pH refers to the pH of soil. The scale measures from 0, most acid, to 14, most alkaline. Seven is neutral. Most plants prefer a range between 5.5 and about 6.7, an acid range, but there are plenty of other plants that like soil more alkaline, or above 7. A pH of 7 is where the plant can most easily absorb the most nutrients in the soil. Some plants prefer more or less of certain nutrients, and therefore do better at a certain pH.
Glossary : Small Shrub
A small shrub is less than 3 feet tall.
Glossary : Flower Characteristics
Flower characteristics can vary greatly and may help you decide on a ""look or feel"" for your garden. If you're looking for fragrance or large, showy flowers, click these boxes and possibilities that fit your cultural conditions will be shown. If you have no preference, leave boxes unchecked to return a greater number of possibilities.
Reply:Jasmine varieties are generally considered evergreen and are not for the most part cold zone plants. It likes sun but should have some protection. If your plant is in good shape leaf and woody parts considered but has no blossoms then so far so good. If it is in a container, start by re-potting, checking to see if root bound, and if so lightly break up the circular pot shaped root ball to keep it from growing in that pot shape and strangling itself. Goldcoast Jasmine, J. dichotomum is probably your variety (zone 10 tropical), which is a white night flowering variety that will blossom continuously.Then, regardless of whether it is in a container or in the garden (in the US south Florida, south California, or south Texas), you need to feed it a higher phosphorus containing fertilizer, with trace elements. Phosphorus is the energy carrying element and is needed for flowering and root growth. The middle number of the fertilizer index of three numbers is the phosphorus (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium). So use a 5-10-5 or a 10-20-10, etc. There are about a dozen trace elements so find a formulation that has as many as you can. Keep in mind that they are a lot of varieties, from an early to mid spring blossom to a summer blossom to a year round flowering so you may have missed this year but your work now will guarantee a huge blossom set next year on a very prolific plant. Check the variety if possible to be sure as greenhouses are not the best at assuring a variety. Use some dolomite lime also to adjust pH and provide calcium and magnesium if it is a garden plant, but if potted be careful or skip this part and make sure to use a house plant formula. The pH of the soil determines what level of availability all the elements will be at in the soil solution. At a low pH range or high pH range different elements are found too low or too high for the plant in question, which is why it is so important. Feed all your flowers and plants with the same formula above (and lime unless it's an acid lover) or use an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 with a boost of super phosphate (0-20-0 or 0-30-0 etc) for flowers and root crops (and established new plants to boost roots). I think that covers it. Good luck.
Reply:..How much sunlight does your plant get
Reply:Best suggestion
ask a good gardener in your locality park.
he will explain you in better way.
its hard on net
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i did it and was successful
dont ignore... :)
Can you grow night blooming jasmine in a zone 8?
8a, to be exact. Everything I've read says zone 10 and 11, but I'd really like to try. I've read that some people have been able to, but can't find any growing tips. I don't want to grow it indoors unless I have to, but I don't mind wintering it. I like it, but keeping it indoors the scent just gets too strong!
Can you grow night blooming jasmine in a zone 8?
"Jasmine" covers a wide variety of shrubs and vines, some with fragrant flowers. The kind you are referring to may be a "Star Jasmine" for the shape of the flowers. In California and Arizona, it is often called night-blooming jasmine. If so, it is not a true jasmine, but rather a trachelospermum, aka trachelospermum jasminoides. This plant can be trained to vine up to 20 feet, or pinched back to form a spreading bush. It is very fragrant and has glossy green leaves and brilliant small, white flowers. Is that what you have?
It is widely planted in the temperate areas of the southwest and gulf states and can be sustained with some sheltering from frost down to zone 8. It is quite hardy and can survive dying back somewhat from frost. But, a hard frost, i.e. several days below freezing may kill it.
If you have that risk in our area, you might try planting it in a large container or half barrel of oak and move it to the south side of the house under an eave in the winter time. Nurseries and home improvement stores have three- or four-wheeled "tractors" that you can put large containers on to make the easier to move around.
Hope that helps.
Reply:If you can bring it in during winter, then it seems to me you would have no difficulty growing it outdoors. Just keep an eye out for pests, and an ear on the weather so as to bring it in before things get rough.
Can you grow night blooming jasmine in a zone 8?
"Jasmine" covers a wide variety of shrubs and vines, some with fragrant flowers. The kind you are referring to may be a "Star Jasmine" for the shape of the flowers. In California and Arizona, it is often called night-blooming jasmine. If so, it is not a true jasmine, but rather a trachelospermum, aka trachelospermum jasminoides. This plant can be trained to vine up to 20 feet, or pinched back to form a spreading bush. It is very fragrant and has glossy green leaves and brilliant small, white flowers. Is that what you have?
It is widely planted in the temperate areas of the southwest and gulf states and can be sustained with some sheltering from frost down to zone 8. It is quite hardy and can survive dying back somewhat from frost. But, a hard frost, i.e. several days below freezing may kill it.
If you have that risk in our area, you might try planting it in a large container or half barrel of oak and move it to the south side of the house under an eave in the winter time. Nurseries and home improvement stores have three- or four-wheeled "tractors" that you can put large containers on to make the easier to move around.
Hope that helps.
Reply:If you can bring it in during winter, then it seems to me you would have no difficulty growing it outdoors. Just keep an eye out for pests, and an ear on the weather so as to bring it in before things get rough.
Can you grow night-blooming jasmine from a cutting?
If so, what is the best way to do this?
Can you grow night-blooming jasmine from a cutting?
Buy some root hormone from home depot or a nursery wet the end of the cutting dip it in the root hormone then carefully plant it wherever you want it and make sure the soil stays damp, also cover it like a greenhouse effect so it'll keep moist and protect it from full sun until it takes a good root . I'll take about a week for the hormone to help the root process, but if done right it'll defineately work evertime!
Reply:don't see why not. Take 2 cuttings. Try one in soil with rooting hormone, the other in a clear container of water. When you see new leaves (soil) you have roots. You'll see the water start roots. good luck
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Can you grow night-blooming jasmine from a cutting?
Buy some root hormone from home depot or a nursery wet the end of the cutting dip it in the root hormone then carefully plant it wherever you want it and make sure the soil stays damp, also cover it like a greenhouse effect so it'll keep moist and protect it from full sun until it takes a good root . I'll take about a week for the hormone to help the root process, but if done right it'll defineately work evertime!
Reply:don't see why not. Take 2 cuttings. Try one in soil with rooting hormone, the other in a clear container of water. When you see new leaves (soil) you have roots. You'll see the water start roots. good luck
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Why wont my night scented jasmine flower?
It seems happy enough, it grows well (outside) and has tripled in size since I bought it but i have never seen a flower? (it is 3 years old). Is it not self polinating?
Why wont my night scented jasmine flower?
It really needs good baking sunshine. I feed this and other plants that are reluctant to flower with Sulphat of Potash, which is the nutrient specifically needed to make flower production.
This doesn't mean that general fertising isn't good too, I just use this as a supplement, to ensure that the best chances of flowering are given.
You don't need another plant to get it to flower, pollination (self or from other plants) is only required for seed production.
I also mulch my night scented jasmine, to help it retain water, which is easily lost during hot dry summer days. You can use some well rotted farm manure, chopped bark or some rotted garden compost. All will help improve the soil condition too.
Good luck! Summer's not summer without the scent of mine. I really hope that yours performs well this summer. Rob
Reply:If its in a pot,your using too rich a compost,if its in the ground,it needs its roots confined.
Reply:Have you prune it? Has it got enough sun? Has it got enough water?
Reply:Is it getting enough sun? I have a jasmine that gets a lot of sun, and one that does not - the sunny one blooms like crazy, while the shady one does not.
Reply:it should have started by now,could be its not getting enough sun, and give it a good watering.
Reply:Have you remembered to feed the Jasmine? it is a plant often overlooked when watering. Good Luck mine smells fantastic.
Why wont my night scented jasmine flower?
It really needs good baking sunshine. I feed this and other plants that are reluctant to flower with Sulphat of Potash, which is the nutrient specifically needed to make flower production.
This doesn't mean that general fertising isn't good too, I just use this as a supplement, to ensure that the best chances of flowering are given.
You don't need another plant to get it to flower, pollination (self or from other plants) is only required for seed production.
I also mulch my night scented jasmine, to help it retain water, which is easily lost during hot dry summer days. You can use some well rotted farm manure, chopped bark or some rotted garden compost. All will help improve the soil condition too.
Good luck! Summer's not summer without the scent of mine. I really hope that yours performs well this summer. Rob
Reply:If its in a pot,your using too rich a compost,if its in the ground,it needs its roots confined.
Reply:Have you prune it? Has it got enough sun? Has it got enough water?
Reply:Is it getting enough sun? I have a jasmine that gets a lot of sun, and one that does not - the sunny one blooms like crazy, while the shady one does not.
Reply:it should have started by now,could be its not getting enough sun, and give it a good watering.
Reply:Have you remembered to feed the Jasmine? it is a plant often overlooked when watering. Good Luck mine smells fantastic.
My night blooming jasmine is iron deficient, would sticking rusty nails in the soil solve the problem?
or mixing iron filings in the soil?
My night blooming jasmine is iron deficient, would sticking rusty nails in the soil solve the problem?
Ummm no.
Different form of Iron than is utilized by the Jasmine.
Iron supplements are readily available at garden/hardware centers...
Reply:No- go to the garden center and buy some Ironite. it's the right stuff for gardening. Apply according to manufacturer's direction. Remember, you can always add more, you can't take it back out!
Reply:I agree with Julie. Go to any garden supply store big or small, they all should carry Ironite. You can also try a liquid form for sick plants,
Vitamin B12. Use recommended dosage and you should be good to go! Good Luck!
Reply:Nope but any home care/lawn dept center has iron for plants
My night blooming jasmine is iron deficient, would sticking rusty nails in the soil solve the problem?
Ummm no.
Different form of Iron than is utilized by the Jasmine.
Iron supplements are readily available at garden/hardware centers...
Reply:No- go to the garden center and buy some Ironite. it's the right stuff for gardening. Apply according to manufacturer's direction. Remember, you can always add more, you can't take it back out!
Reply:I agree with Julie. Go to any garden supply store big or small, they all should carry Ironite. You can also try a liquid form for sick plants,
Vitamin B12. Use recommended dosage and you should be good to go! Good Luck!
Reply:Nope but any home care/lawn dept center has iron for plants
Night blooming jasmine?
How to grow from clippings? Can you and are the clippings best off in water or soil to root. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Also, how long from clipping will it take before I can transplant into pot then outside??
Night blooming jasmine?
Hey! Night Blooming Jasmine aka Night Jessamine.
'Botanical name': Cestrum nocturnum.
I have a shrub in a #15 sized (decorative) container. 10 years ago, when I lived in San Francisco - where they are 'rather common' and can grow into 2 storey specimens that fill the late August air with their pungent/sweet aroma - I started several new plants from semi-hard wood cuttings (2nd year growth which is partially woody and partially green) in the soil near the 'mother plant' in the fall. I took 8-10" cuttings, reduced the leaves by 90% and left at least 4-5 'nodes' - removed the lower leaves - and merely stuck them into the ground about 5". Winters in SF are generally cool and wet. By spring the cuttings had rooted and I was able to transplant them.
I moved to north to Sonoma County where we often get freezing night temps in the winter. Although the plant froze to the soil surface (in a container) it has sprouted and the plant is about 4' tall and now beginning to set bud. I used a 20-20-20 fert. and am now switching to 0-10-10 for abundant flowers.
I would say that any technique resembling the one mentioned above would do the trick. You could, if it is planted in the ground, bend a branch down to soil level, remove a section of leaves and bury a portion of it (using something for weight like a rock) in the soil. Roots will sprout from the old leaf scars after a few months (maximum.) You can then dig up the new start after cutting it from the original stem.
As far as starting them in water...I'd use the same technique as stated for starting semi-hard wood - being sure to reduce the leaves considerably. How long by water? I don't know.
(FYI: C. nocturnum is in the Solanaceae Family - aka the Potato family - they bear flowers that are nearly always star or saucer shaped and 5 petaled: fruits are berries or capsules. Plants are frequently rank smelling or even poisonous, but many are important food crops -- eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato. Others are garden annuals, perennials, shrubs or vines -- Browallia, Cestrum, Nicotiania and Petunia, to name a few...)
I hope this answers all your questions re: Night Blooming Jessamine. It is 'very easy' to propagate...
Happy Gardening!
Reply:I have been successful with clippings from a rubber tree. What I did was cut a slit just above a branch. You spread the wound slightly, sprinkle it with Rootone, and wrap a cloth filled with potting soil around the branch. Then wrap plastic wrap around that. Keep the area moist.
Within a month, you should have a root system going in the dirt. That's the time to finish the incision and put it in a pot. I'd baby it through the winter indoors and wait until spring to put it out.
Also, how long from clipping will it take before I can transplant into pot then outside??
Night blooming jasmine?
Hey! Night Blooming Jasmine aka Night Jessamine.
'Botanical name': Cestrum nocturnum.
I have a shrub in a #15 sized (decorative) container. 10 years ago, when I lived in San Francisco - where they are 'rather common' and can grow into 2 storey specimens that fill the late August air with their pungent/sweet aroma - I started several new plants from semi-hard wood cuttings (2nd year growth which is partially woody and partially green) in the soil near the 'mother plant' in the fall. I took 8-10" cuttings, reduced the leaves by 90% and left at least 4-5 'nodes' - removed the lower leaves - and merely stuck them into the ground about 5". Winters in SF are generally cool and wet. By spring the cuttings had rooted and I was able to transplant them.
I moved to north to Sonoma County where we often get freezing night temps in the winter. Although the plant froze to the soil surface (in a container) it has sprouted and the plant is about 4' tall and now beginning to set bud. I used a 20-20-20 fert. and am now switching to 0-10-10 for abundant flowers.
I would say that any technique resembling the one mentioned above would do the trick. You could, if it is planted in the ground, bend a branch down to soil level, remove a section of leaves and bury a portion of it (using something for weight like a rock) in the soil. Roots will sprout from the old leaf scars after a few months (maximum.) You can then dig up the new start after cutting it from the original stem.
As far as starting them in water...I'd use the same technique as stated for starting semi-hard wood - being sure to reduce the leaves considerably. How long by water? I don't know.
(FYI: C. nocturnum is in the Solanaceae Family - aka the Potato family - they bear flowers that are nearly always star or saucer shaped and 5 petaled: fruits are berries or capsules. Plants are frequently rank smelling or even poisonous, but many are important food crops -- eggplant, pepper, potato, tomato. Others are garden annuals, perennials, shrubs or vines -- Browallia, Cestrum, Nicotiania and Petunia, to name a few...)
I hope this answers all your questions re: Night Blooming Jessamine. It is 'very easy' to propagate...
Happy Gardening!
Reply:I have been successful with clippings from a rubber tree. What I did was cut a slit just above a branch. You spread the wound slightly, sprinkle it with Rootone, and wrap a cloth filled with potting soil around the branch. Then wrap plastic wrap around that. Keep the area moist.
Within a month, you should have a root system going in the dirt. That's the time to finish the incision and put it in a pot. I'd baby it through the winter indoors and wait until spring to put it out.
Has any one heard of a night blooming jasmine plant?
i love the smell of jasmine and a long time ago i heard someone talking about the plant. i live in the midwest.
Has any one heard of a night blooming jasmine plant?
Family: Solanaceae (sol-uh-NAY-see-ee)
Genus: Cestrum (SES-trum)
Species: nocturnum (NOK-ter-num)
Reply:yes its as wonderful a smell as ive ever smelled gardenias are good too and my french lilac bush thats blooming today is like perfume of the finast kind ,,enjoy
Reply:Yes.
When I was growing up in California my Mom had one planted in the backyard and every June, July and August when the days got over 100 and the nights were just as hot, I would have the window open and get the wonderful smell wafting of the evening breeze. What a treat that was.
Reply:Absolutely, night blooming jasmine can be purchased on line and at some specialty nursery's. They smell amazing and can be keep outdoors in the summer months and brought inside when the weather starts to become uncooperative.
I love jasmine and I will never get tired of the spectacular smell.
Reply:You can buy a night jasmine from a online nursery and keep in potted in your house. The flowers aren't much to look at but smell better than any other flower.
Toothache
Has any one heard of a night blooming jasmine plant?
Family: Solanaceae (sol-uh-NAY-see-ee)
Genus: Cestrum (SES-trum)
Species: nocturnum (NOK-ter-num)
Reply:yes its as wonderful a smell as ive ever smelled gardenias are good too and my french lilac bush thats blooming today is like perfume of the finast kind ,,enjoy
Reply:Yes.
When I was growing up in California my Mom had one planted in the backyard and every June, July and August when the days got over 100 and the nights were just as hot, I would have the window open and get the wonderful smell wafting of the evening breeze. What a treat that was.
Reply:Absolutely, night blooming jasmine can be purchased on line and at some specialty nursery's. They smell amazing and can be keep outdoors in the summer months and brought inside when the weather starts to become uncooperative.
I love jasmine and I will never get tired of the spectacular smell.
Reply:You can buy a night jasmine from a online nursery and keep in potted in your house. The flowers aren't much to look at but smell better than any other flower.
Toothache
Hi! I'm looking for a perfume/fragrance smelling like night jasmine (or night blooming jasmine)?
do you know where i could purchase it? or who, what brand or store might make/sell it?
I just love the perfume of this flower, and I would love to wear it!
thank you very much for your help
Hi! I'm looking for a perfume/fragrance smelling like night jasmine (or night blooming jasmine)?
bath and bodyworks.
Reply:Get Miami Glow By J-Lo. Love it!
Reply:There is a brand at target called luxe, in the white bottles. It's an amazing white jasmine scent. Bath and body works also sells a night blooming jasmine line too I think. It's probably just sold at their website and during the big sales.
http://www.bathandbodyworks.com/family/i...
Reply:Avon has a body gel, creme and light cologne spray called Jasmine. It smells very nice.
I just love the perfume of this flower, and I would love to wear it!
thank you very much for your help
Hi! I'm looking for a perfume/fragrance smelling like night jasmine (or night blooming jasmine)?
bath and bodyworks.
Reply:Get Miami Glow By J-Lo. Love it!
Reply:There is a brand at target called luxe, in the white bottles. It's an amazing white jasmine scent. Bath and body works also sells a night blooming jasmine line too I think. It's probably just sold at their website and during the big sales.
http://www.bathandbodyworks.com/family/i...
Reply:Avon has a body gel, creme and light cologne spray called Jasmine. It smells very nice.
I have purchased a Night Jasmine .Planted in garden in Ontario. Do i need to bring in during winter?
I have planted it along side my deck. We live in Beaverton Ontario.
I have purchased a Night Jasmine .Planted in garden in Ontario. Do i need to bring in during winter?
Please tell the exact species.
I have purchased a Night Jasmine .Planted in garden in Ontario. Do i need to bring in during winter?
Please tell the exact species.
Characteristics of a plant called cestrum nocturnum (or night blooming jasmine)?
I want to plant night blooming jasmine; but my current back/side yards are mostly shade with some afternoon sun. Front patio area has morning sun with a strip of hot afternoon sun and lots of shade.
Characteristics of a plant called cestrum nocturnum (or night blooming jasmine)?
This particular plant can take full or partial sun. I'd place it wherever you have the room for it.
It grows fast, and the smell on large bushes can be overpowering on some summer evenings. I still love the smell of it though, and it's a wonderful plant to have!
If it gets too large for your area, go ahead and trim it, as it will replce bloom heads fairly quickly in the growing months.
Characteristics of a plant called cestrum nocturnum (or night blooming jasmine)?
This particular plant can take full or partial sun. I'd place it wherever you have the room for it.
It grows fast, and the smell on large bushes can be overpowering on some summer evenings. I still love the smell of it though, and it's a wonderful plant to have!
If it gets too large for your area, go ahead and trim it, as it will replce bloom heads fairly quickly in the growing months.
Do birds eat the blooms on night blooming jasmine plants something is eating mine. How can I prevent this?
I have night blooming jasmine plants and something is eating the flower blooms. Do birds eat them and how can I protect my plants?
Do birds eat the blooms on night blooming jasmine plants something is eating mine. How can I prevent this?
use dawn dish soap and water in a spray bottle spray it in a hidden spot first because if you put to much soap it will hurt the plant
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Do birds eat the blooms on night blooming jasmine plants something is eating mine. How can I prevent this?
use dawn dish soap and water in a spray bottle spray it in a hidden spot first because if you put to much soap it will hurt the plant
domain names
How long till flowers regrow? Night blooming Jasmine-?
I have a night blooming jasmine, it is healthy, but in shipping all but 4 flowers fell off, and the four still on it are still open*blooming?* I want to know how long will it take for new flowers to grow or will I have to wait a year for them to return?
Also are the flowers that are open all the time okay or is it a sign of something wrong.
How long till flowers regrow? Night blooming Jasmine-?
I don't know what state (growing zone) you are in, but most gardens are about to go to sleep for the fall and winter. Unless you live in a very warm state such as southern Calif. or Florida, I'm sure your wonderful jasmine will soon loose it's flowers and close down for the winter.
If it is growing in a pot, you can keep it going through the winter by bringing it in the house and setting it in a south facing window. Don't forget to water it ever so often, it will need water. Stick your finger down into the soil about two inches and see if it feels dry. You can do this now too while it is outside.
Also are the flowers that are open all the time okay or is it a sign of something wrong.
How long till flowers regrow? Night blooming Jasmine-?
I don't know what state (growing zone) you are in, but most gardens are about to go to sleep for the fall and winter. Unless you live in a very warm state such as southern Calif. or Florida, I'm sure your wonderful jasmine will soon loose it's flowers and close down for the winter.
If it is growing in a pot, you can keep it going through the winter by bringing it in the house and setting it in a south facing window. Don't forget to water it ever so often, it will need water. Stick your finger down into the soil about two inches and see if it feels dry. You can do this now too while it is outside.
Help my night blooming jasmine. leaves r turning yellow.?
i have a beautiful fragrant night blooming jasmine and its now on bloom. it lives in a pot and looked quite happy and healthy. lately it seems like its depressed with yellow leaves that have started from the bottom of the plant and now the leaves around the mid of the plants r turning yellow too. after it turns yellow it falls away. i fertilize it with liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks but still no help. it basically has no leaves around the bottom, right above the soil level. and i donno what i should do? should i crush some calcium tablets that us humans consume? i have no idea. pls help if u know these plants. thank you.
Help my night blooming jasmine. leaves r turning yellow.?
You are overwatering and over fertilising. It may need more sunlight.
Reply:sounds like over fertilizing it,, jasmines do that they will yellow and droop but once watered perk back up a few hrs later i had potted ones in the shade and looked great then put them in the ground in full sun and it takes a little while with care but they should bounce back they are definitly a watched over plant..
Help my night blooming jasmine. leaves r turning yellow.?
You are overwatering and over fertilising. It may need more sunlight.
Reply:sounds like over fertilizing it,, jasmines do that they will yellow and droop but once watered perk back up a few hrs later i had potted ones in the shade and looked great then put them in the ground in full sun and it takes a little while with care but they should bounce back they are definitly a watched over plant..
Night Blooming Jasmine!?
I have allergies to Night Blooming Jasmine, which seems to be the favorite plant in my neighborhood.
My neighbors will not remove those plants.
Any suggestions as to what I can do to lessen the symptoms and enjoy my evenings.?
Night Blooming Jasmine!?
You can wear pollen mask. These are cheap, but you will be looking weird to members of your family. But for me, I don't like medications, so I wear it until the season is over.
The usual standard answer is go to your medical provider and ask for allergy kit. Some medical providers have very good allergy kits depending on the symptoms you suffer.
My neighbors will not remove those plants.
Any suggestions as to what I can do to lessen the symptoms and enjoy my evenings.?
Night Blooming Jasmine!?
You can wear pollen mask. These are cheap, but you will be looking weird to members of your family. But for me, I don't like medications, so I wear it until the season is over.
The usual standard answer is go to your medical provider and ask for allergy kit. Some medical providers have very good allergy kits depending on the symptoms you suffer.
Night Blooming Jasmine...?
My mother loves night blooming jasmine. So on Mothers Day, I went looking for one to plant under her bedroom window. I was told that all jasmine plants bloom at night and all give off that wonderful fragrance. BUT...the one I bought has begun to bloom and the blooms dont look look the same and you can't smell it at night - the fragrance isn't as strong as the plant we had when I was younger. Any thoughts? Suggestions?
Night Blooming Jasmine...?
The Star Jasmine is definitely what you need. It is Very fragrant and is in full bloom now here in CA. Good luck.
Reply:This was helpful to me too. I also remember night-blooming Jasmine as a child and I loved it!
I can still remember the fragrance wafting throughthe house after a summer rain. Report It
Reply:YOU... got Taken.....!
It is the WRONG..... PLANT!
Go back to where you... bought it.... and Speak with the MANAGER.......ONLY!
Thanks, RR
Reply:What you are looking for is Star Jasmine. It blooms all day and night. Gives off a wonderful aroma and on warm evenings it is even nicer. By the way, it loves sun and is evergreen. I'm in N. Calif. and mine is in full bloom right now.
Reply:I know the plants your Mom Loves. There are hundreds of different kinds of Jasmine. Maybe the person made a mistake when selling you the plant. I've been lucky to enjoy the ones planted under my bedroom window,by my Mom in the late 70's. (God,I still live at home?) We Bought Moms house. I've never seen seeds on them until this year.I think because this is the first year it froze since she planted them. I have a bag full of seeds, your welcome to have them. Bye
Reply:Angel Wing Jasmine may suffice but perhaps only as a house plant. It has a very sweet smell, and is high maintenance, not sure where you live and whether the plant can handle the climate, but check into it.
Reply:It's Star Jasmine.
I have one %26amp; have had it for years. We all wait for it to bloom %26amp; give off its wonderful scent at night.
Make sure your next purchase is the one you want. How annoying for you.
Reply:Try night blooming Honeysuckle. It's smell is so beautiful and intense. The actual name of the plant is Lonicera periclymenum (L.)) The one in my garden has deep purple vine shoots with lovely contrasting leaves. When it blooms it has creamy white and fuscia flowers which smell like perfume.
golf shoes plus
Night Blooming Jasmine...?
The Star Jasmine is definitely what you need. It is Very fragrant and is in full bloom now here in CA. Good luck.
Reply:This was helpful to me too. I also remember night-blooming Jasmine as a child and I loved it!
I can still remember the fragrance wafting throughthe house after a summer rain. Report It
Reply:YOU... got Taken.....!
It is the WRONG..... PLANT!
Go back to where you... bought it.... and Speak with the MANAGER.......ONLY!
Thanks, RR
Reply:What you are looking for is Star Jasmine. It blooms all day and night. Gives off a wonderful aroma and on warm evenings it is even nicer. By the way, it loves sun and is evergreen. I'm in N. Calif. and mine is in full bloom right now.
Reply:I know the plants your Mom Loves. There are hundreds of different kinds of Jasmine. Maybe the person made a mistake when selling you the plant. I've been lucky to enjoy the ones planted under my bedroom window,by my Mom in the late 70's. (God,I still live at home?) We Bought Moms house. I've never seen seeds on them until this year.I think because this is the first year it froze since she planted them. I have a bag full of seeds, your welcome to have them. Bye
Reply:Angel Wing Jasmine may suffice but perhaps only as a house plant. It has a very sweet smell, and is high maintenance, not sure where you live and whether the plant can handle the climate, but check into it.
Reply:It's Star Jasmine.
I have one %26amp; have had it for years. We all wait for it to bloom %26amp; give off its wonderful scent at night.
Make sure your next purchase is the one you want. How annoying for you.
Reply:Try night blooming Honeysuckle. It's smell is so beautiful and intense. The actual name of the plant is Lonicera periclymenum (L.)) The one in my garden has deep purple vine shoots with lovely contrasting leaves. When it blooms it has creamy white and fuscia flowers which smell like perfume.
golf shoes plus
Does anyone know of a name of a perfume with " Night Jasmine"?
I love the smell of this flower and would adore a perfume with Night Jasmine in it. Please, if anyone knows a brand name of where i can get this i would be very happy.
Thanks
Does anyone know of a name of a perfume with " Night Jasmine"?
www.harmonic-health.com/
www.florislondon.com
These should both be helpfull, alternatively, you could always go into boots and ask the assistant, they have many perfumes xx
Reply:the body shop would be my 1st guess,
Reply:It's my name... =) we have plenty in here... asia
Reply:Google is your friend :)
Try this link
http://www.perfumespedia.com/about-perfu...
Thanks
Does anyone know of a name of a perfume with " Night Jasmine"?
www.harmonic-health.com/
www.florislondon.com
These should both be helpfull, alternatively, you could always go into boots and ask the assistant, they have many perfumes xx
Reply:the body shop would be my 1st guess,
Reply:It's my name... =) we have plenty in here... asia
Reply:Google is your friend :)
Try this link
http://www.perfumespedia.com/about-perfu...
What time of year is best to plant Night Jasmine in SF?
I live in the moderate Haight Ashbry in San Francisco, CA and would like to plant a few Night Jasmine (NOT Star Jasmine)...wondering what month is best.
Not using cuttings....transfering an actual root ball.
Thanks.
What time of year is best to plant Night Jasmine in SF?
The plant you refer to is commonly known as the Night Blooming Jasmine or Night Jessamine. It is not a true jasmine. The correct name to purchase it under is Cestrum nocturnum. Blooming at night, its fragrance is so powerful that people can and have developed allergic reactions. Be wise not to plant too close to open bedroom windows. The scent can very easily and quickly become nauseating! It is potent beyond belief and can be smelled from blocks away! The plant will reach approximately 12 feet at maturity. Easy to grow and tough to kill when established, it's growth can become rangy. When this happens, simply prune and new growth will reappear soon. As you have decided to plant a potted nursery speciman, any time of year is appropriate in San Francisco. You may not see active growth until late spring in your area as the bay keeps the warmer temps of summer at "bay!" Best of Luck!
Reply:Earily Spring
Reply:anytime --- it's as hardy as --- and where you live won't affect it's functioning as a jasmine ( it can be very strong but ) good luck .
Not using cuttings....transfering an actual root ball.
Thanks.
What time of year is best to plant Night Jasmine in SF?
The plant you refer to is commonly known as the Night Blooming Jasmine or Night Jessamine. It is not a true jasmine. The correct name to purchase it under is Cestrum nocturnum. Blooming at night, its fragrance is so powerful that people can and have developed allergic reactions. Be wise not to plant too close to open bedroom windows. The scent can very easily and quickly become nauseating! It is potent beyond belief and can be smelled from blocks away! The plant will reach approximately 12 feet at maturity. Easy to grow and tough to kill when established, it's growth can become rangy. When this happens, simply prune and new growth will reappear soon. As you have decided to plant a potted nursery speciman, any time of year is appropriate in San Francisco. You may not see active growth until late spring in your area as the bay keeps the warmer temps of summer at "bay!" Best of Luck!
Reply:Earily Spring
Reply:anytime --- it's as hardy as --- and where you live won't affect it's functioning as a jasmine ( it can be very strong but ) good luck .
Honeysuckle and night jasmine?
The flowers of honeysuckle and night jasmine look a lot similar. Are they the same species and do they smell similar too?
Honeysuckle and night jasmine?
They are not closely related.
The honeysuckle plants are in the plant family Caprifoliaceae and genus Lonicera. Honeysuckle include Lonicera periclymenum the Woodbine or Lonicera sempervirens the coral honeysuckle. They attract both butterflies and moths with the paler, fragrant flowers but attract hummingbirds with the vividly color species like Lonicera sempervirens.
However the Night Scented or Night Blooming Jasmine is Cestrum nocturnum in the plant family Solance and Genus Cestrum.
The reason the flowers are similar in structure is they are both pollinated by Lepidoptera (butterflies %26amp; moths) or hummingbirds but all with long tongues. Night flying moths visit pale colored blossoms like the jasmine with strong evening %26amp; night released scents for nectar %26amp; pollination while hummingbirds visit bright colored tubular flowers. Butterflies go for a range of colors as long as they are sweetly scented in the day.
http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cache:EYv...
http://www.plant-supplies.com/plants/ces...
The active odorant in Night Jasmine is the same as in Abelia grandiflora, phenylacetaldehyde.
http://books.google.com/books?id=KQkBqF3...
The active odorants in Woodbine include metabolites of amino acids like oximes, nitriles and nitro-compounds, have been detected.
http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng...
Plants expend a lot of resources in coloring or scenting flowers so they are, usually, either colorful or fragrant.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;...
Honeysuckle and night jasmine?
They are not closely related.
The honeysuckle plants are in the plant family Caprifoliaceae and genus Lonicera. Honeysuckle include Lonicera periclymenum the Woodbine or Lonicera sempervirens the coral honeysuckle. They attract both butterflies and moths with the paler, fragrant flowers but attract hummingbirds with the vividly color species like Lonicera sempervirens.
However the Night Scented or Night Blooming Jasmine is Cestrum nocturnum in the plant family Solance and Genus Cestrum.
The reason the flowers are similar in structure is they are both pollinated by Lepidoptera (butterflies %26amp; moths) or hummingbirds but all with long tongues. Night flying moths visit pale colored blossoms like the jasmine with strong evening %26amp; night released scents for nectar %26amp; pollination while hummingbirds visit bright colored tubular flowers. Butterflies go for a range of colors as long as they are sweetly scented in the day.
http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cache:EYv...
http://www.plant-supplies.com/plants/ces...
The active odorant in Night Jasmine is the same as in Abelia grandiflora, phenylacetaldehyde.
http://books.google.com/books?id=KQkBqF3...
The active odorants in Woodbine include metabolites of amino acids like oximes, nitriles and nitro-compounds, have been detected.
http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng...
Plants expend a lot of resources in coloring or scenting flowers so they are, usually, either colorful or fragrant.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;...
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